A) Get the oven cleaned up as Spectre07 suggested you do.- Done
From what you told us you have a non-circulating oven and therefore air movement is critical. The oven can evaporate the solvents, but if the air flow is low, you have to keep an eye on condensate build up.

Make sure the wire is properly centered in the oven and make sure the wire does not touch any part of the oven. – Done
In addition to centering the wire in the “wire chamber” you have to consider your heaters. Are they on both sides of the wire lines or only on one side. If they are only on one side you might want to favor the side without the heaters. If they are just calrod or tubular heaters that run from side to side of the wire chamber, you might look into the chamber and see if you see any hot spots. Same for heated plates – they can also get hot spots.
C) Make sure that the surface of the wire is of very high quality. – Surface is of good quality. Not excellent. Meaning thereby at 60 x magnification we can see some marks on the surface probably due to slippage in drawing machine. But the same is not visible at normal 10 x magnification levels and the wire also feels absolutely smooth when touched.
If your surface quality is so good that it takes a 60x scope to see imperfection, then – don’t laugh, maybe your wire is too slick!
D) Get the oven ventilation back into a standard configuration. – Done. The first zones temperature of 350 deg C was not achieved so we are in the process of adding more heaters. We intend to run the machine at 350/400/450 configuration for the three zones. Hopefully with first zone at 350 should be high enough for the evaporation of the solvents.
I am a firm believer that the best temperatures are those that give you the best wire and best productivity. Without knowing how long each zone is, it is hard to comment on the temperatures that you are mentioning. In our vertical recirculation ovens the air flowed with the wire in the evaporation zone, against the wire in the cure zone. In the interchange the two air flows met. We had two different temperature zones in the evaporation section and only one in the cure zone. We could adjust air flow in each of the evaporation zones and the cure zone. We measured the temperature of the air not the temperature of the wall surfaces. For your type oven and the speed your run, it seems to me that the temperatures are pretty high. Again without knowing the length of the oven or zones and where you are measuring the temperatures, I might be wrong. You also say that your enamels are designed for slow speeds and if that makes it seem even more possible that your temperatures are high for the speeds.
E) Get the annealer quench tank water temperature up to 190F and keep it there. Currently it is at 75 degrees. We are trying to get it up to 190F /85C. One question though the conductivity of the water changes with temperature. We have been advised to keep the conductivity below 50 microsiemens. We are trying to keep it below 30. However this level is checked after allowing the water to cool down to around 40C and not at 80C. Also the pH in the quenching bath is being maintained at 7-8.5 pH and for this the inlet water to the quenching bath is maintained at 6 pH. Is this OK?
You appear to have a pretty good control of the quality of the water. We used a deionizer because our water came from multiple sources and they varied – the deionizer took care of that problem. I think that controlling the temperature of the annealer quench tank is very important. We built the quench tanks so that they filled when the level dropped but at the same time we used an automobile thermostat to maintain the temperature. If it got to hot the thermostat opened water drained off and fresh water was added. If the water temperature is right, the water rapidly evaporates from the wire. If the water is too cool it stays on the wire and slowly dries or makes it to the applicator. If you touch the wire between the annealer quench tank and the applicator and it is cold or cool is it also wet? You want the wire to be dry and warm but not so warm that it oxidizes. Also the wire being warm helps the evaporation process.
F) Make sure all other components of your oven are working properly. – Done. Checked by using the ampere rating and reading of all heaters.
G) Wipe the wire before the annealer to eliminate loose copper fines. Done. Double wipes before and after annealer.
Wiping is good.
H) Hold very tight control over all of your process and let us know in about a year how you made out managing this intermittent problem. – Will Do.
Peter, We are already an ISO 9001 approved organization and have started cpk measurement for some CTQ parameters as a part of Six Sigma drive. However, we are not able to pin-point the cause of this problem despite our best efforts.
Maybe you are spending too much time looking at your process. I cannot think of any way that I could make good wire today, that passes all of the tests, and then (it) fails, but then in about 6 months is good again. I have no idea how you can make a product (like that). It tells me that you need to make certain that both you and your customers are using the same test equipment and following the same test process. Again if the wire was good today, it should be good tomorrow or next week or next month.
So on the point raised by Richard regarding high speed of enamels. Here in India the problem is reverse. Since most of the machines are having vxd around 15 the enamels are suited for these machines. For very high vxd machines (above 100 ) there have been reports that the enamels available locally are not able of matching up.
Ask your enamel suppliers to give you some temperature profiles that are optimal for your type of equipment. They should be able to do this.
rb